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The Ian Fleming Collection: The Original Watches of the 007 books

The Ian Fleming Collection: The Original Watches of the 007 books

James Bond Island Watches of the 007 books

James Bond’s movie watches are well known from the Rolex Submariner to the Omega Seamaster. However, very few people can recognise the watches of the 007 books as they range from Cartier to Rolex and even a Patek Philippe. Read on to hear about every watch appearance in Ian Fleming’s James Bond novels.


Whether your genre or not, the James Bond franchise has become one of the most widely-known around the globe. The movies, whichever may be you favourite, captured an exoticism which was striking for many in the mid-20th century and gave excitement to many people’s lives. I might also note that, in these times of self-imposed quarantine, it’s more enjoyable than ever to picture the sapphire-blue waters off Jamaica or the smoke-filled gambling clubs of London frequented by Bond.

Fleming, Ian / Encyclopædia Britannica / https://www.britannica.com/biography/Ian-Fleming/images-videos#/media/1/209963/190110
Ian Fleming, photo sourced from Encyclopedia Britannica | Everett Collection/Alamy

However, today’s article is not actually about the films or the watches which famously inhabited them. Instead, I’d like to shed a light on the much less discussed world of Fleming’s novels. Without making this article too literary, it’s worth commenting on the way Fleming constructed the world in which Bond lived. Unlike the arguably more subtle writing of other espionage-related novelists, Fleming filled his books with brand names and product details to create the atmosphere which is best portrayed in the films starring Sean Connery.

Bond doesn’t smoke cigarettes; he smokes cigarettes made bespoke by Morland of Grosvenor Street from a blend of Balkan and Turkish tobacco. He doesn’t drive a sports car; he drives a Bentley which he has had coachbuilt to accommodate more luggage and, later, an Aston Martin DBIII. These are both members of a string of automobiles described which serve to titillate any car enthusiast.

In this way, a tangible environment was created for Bond to live in and this most definitely applied to the watches of the 007 books. More importantly, Ian Fleming used the watches of the 007 books to present his characters, ranging from heroes to villains, in vivid technicolour.

007’s Taste for Rolex

Ian Fleming was a bonafide Rolex wearer and was known for owning a Rolex Explorer ref. 1016. Even so, it is clear that this was not his first Rolex considering Fleming’s death in 1964 — just one year after this reference was released. As an alter-ego, 007 was also very much a Rolex wearer too yet, as with Fleming’s choice, there was absolutely zero prestige in that decision.

Rolex Explorer 1016 Ian Fleming
A Rolex Explorer ref. 1016 from 1963, very similar to that of Ian Fleming, sold by Phillips in December 2019 for USD 27,500 | Credit: Phillips

The first mention of Bond’s watch appears in Live and Let Die (1954) when we are introduced to the agent’s diving equipment. This kit is then used in a decidedly exciting display of derring-do as Bond makes his way through barracuda-infested waters under the cover of darkness. Interestingly, we still learn very little about Bond’s watch apart from the fact that, being a Rolex (Oyster), it can resist the immersion to which it will be subjected. Of course, given that the novel was published in 1954 and researched over the preceding 18 months, I doubt that Fleming had a Rolex Submariner which was released in 1954.

Nonetheless, the mere mention of the Rolex name as one of the watches of the 007 books presents the rugged side to the character. This was a discreet and unpretentious watch to be used to within an inch of its life — something far removed from the modern Rolex experience. Such a feeling was also given to Bond’s second watch-related scene.

Rolex pre-Explorer watches of the 007 books
Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 6098 from 1952 on sale from Bulang & Sons | Credit: Bulang and Sons

This scene, a favourite of mine, takes place in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service (1963). In this novel, Bond travels to Piz Gloria in Switzerland to investigate and identify Ernst Stavro Blofeld and his accomplice Irma Bunt. Finding himself trapped in Blofeld’s lair masquerading as a health clinic, Bond must fight his way out. With his razor in his left hand and his Rolex wrapped around his right hand as a knuckle duster, he proceeds to bludgeon a guard out of action. Bond later states that he will probably buy another Rolex due to this very toughness.

Through these examples, it’s worth noting that Bond didn’t wear a Rolex for the brand but rather for the durability. On this basis, I wonder what Fleming’s Bond would have chosen today?

Hugo Drax: A Portrayal of Wealth

Hugo Drax in Moonraker (1955) is a thoroughly different character in the novels than in the 1979 movie of the same name. Living as a German soldier and saboteur during the Second World War, he is disfigured in a botched attack. Misidentified as a British soldier, he becomes Hugo Drax: a successful businessman, philanthropist and agent of the USSR.

Patek Philippe Calatrava watches of the 007 books
A Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 570 sold by Phillips in May 2018 for CHF 77,500 | Credit: Phillips

First introduced to the reader as a cheat in the fictional London gambling club “Blades”, Drax is presented as a crass, impolite brute with immensely deep pockets. He is also described as being a truly hideous man to behold: all contributing to a thoroughly unpleasant image for the reader to imagine. With this image already in the mind, Fleming used his watch as a final touch. By contrast to Bond’s truly functional choice, Drax wears ‘a plain gold Patek Philippe on a black leather strap.’

This choice presents the perfect background to the character as someone whose primary concern is displaying their wealth and status as a means of hiding their true aims. Of course, we will never know which Patek Philippe Fleming had in mind but I would hazard a guess that a Calatrava would be the best choice.

Tiffany Case: Tiffany by name, Tiffany by nature

Cartier Tank Francaise Christie's watches of the 007 books
A Cartier Tank Française sold by Christie’s for USD 3,000 in April 2017 | Credit: Christie’s

In the 1956 novel Diamonds Are Forever, Bond goes up against “The Spangled Mob”: a major diamond smuggling ring in America. On this journey, he meets Tiffany Case — a lady with a less-than-luxurious background in brothel ownership. Even so, named after the shop from which her deceased father bought perfume for her mother, there is more than a little luxury to this lover of Bond.

Incidentally, she is also the only female character to whom Fleming assigns a watch: ‘a small square Cartier watch with a black strap’. Of course, the most obvious choice of model would be the inimitable and truly stunning Cartier Tank. With youthful simplicity and a much more elegant demeanour than the Rolex worn by Bond, the Tank seems a delightful choice for someone as involved in a landscape of casinos and diamonds.

Donald Grant: A Complicated Watch for a Complicated Man

Appearing from the very beginning of From Russia, with Love (1957), Donald Grant was an unusual villain. Originally a Briton with severe psychiatric issues, he was enlisted by SMERSH as a ferociously brutal assassin. Within the first few pages, we are introduced to this mysterious man as naked and lying face down beside a swimming pool. Beside him rest a money clip stuffed with banknotes, a gold Dunhill lighter and a gold Fabergé cigarette case — all loot from previous kills.

Girard-Perregaux 1966 Full Calendar From Russia With Love
The Girard-Perregaux 1966 Full Calendar – The closest modern equivalent to Grant’s watch | Credit: Girard-Perregaux

Most importantly for this article, there is also a watch. It is described as ‘a bulky golf wrist-watch on a well-used brown crocodile strap’. Most importantly, the description continues as the most complete description of all of the watches of the 007 books.

See Also

Fleming continues: ‘It was a Girard-Perregaux model designed for people who like gadgets, and it had a sweep second-hand and two little windows in the face to tell the day of the month, and the month, and the phase of the moon.’. From this, we can be sure that Grant wore a gold triple-calendar Girard-Perregaux. Curiously, however, I have never seen a Girard-Perregaux from this period with these complications although I am certainly open to being shown one if such a watch existed.

From this description, the choice of watch is an interesting one. In personality as in profession, Grant is presented as a brute and yet his watch, stolen from a victim, is a very elegant piece. The result is an ambiguous feel as the watch has a significant effect on out view of the character, something rare in these novels.

Guiseppe Petacchi: The Ultimate Rolex

Sotheby's Rolex chronometer watches of the 007 books
1951 Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 6084 sold by Sotheby’s for CHF 7,500 in November 2018 | Credit: Sotheby’s

If you’re familiar with the film adaptations of 007, Guiseppe Petacchi may be an unfamiliar name. However, his role in 1961’s Thunderball is roughly that of Angelo Palazzi (masquerading as François Derval) as he crashes a Villiers Vindicator in order for Emilio Largo, an agent of SPECTRE, to collect its bombs.

Whilst undeniably short-lived and never a true opponent for Bond, Petacchi’s watch is one of the most memorable. It captures a mix of Italian style and a need for mechanical reliability as the pilot which this character is. The watch chosen is ‘a solid gold Rolex Oyster Perpetual Chronometer on a flexible gold bracelet’. From this description, we can all picture the watch as is so often the case with the unique styling of a Rolex.

Fleming’s Overall Picture of Watches of the 007 Novels

Ian Fleming’s Bond novels are, for many, the reference for exciting and adventurous books about espionage. By the same token, James Bond and his general image (with the possible exception of George Smiley) is just what comes to mind when one thinks of a spy. However, through the watches worn by this character and by others in the franchise we are given a deeper insight into what Ian Fleming pictured when he put pen to paper.

Which is your favourite watch to appear in the 007 franchise?


Head over to our brands section to find out about each of the watch brands in this article


Find out about Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier and Girard-Perregaux on their respective websites.

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