To celebrate the completion of their newest facility in Plan-les-Ouates in Geneva, the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 6007A-001 has been launched as a modern, stainless steel, and blue dial version of the Calatrava for a new generation and in a limited run of 1,000 pieces.
The presence of Patek Philippe in Geneva seems so fundamental to the watchmaking world that it barely needs repeating. However, following several years of planning and construction, this Genevan giant has almost completed its move to the new PP6 building in Plan-le-Ouates. Whilst this still placed Patek in Geneva, it also presents the infrastructure due to keep this brand relevant long into the future.
In order to celebrate this major event, a new version of the Patek Philippe Calatrava has been launched: the reference 6007A-001.
On the face of things, this watch is far from the classical, even traditional lines of the most recognisable Calatrava models. In a rather appropriate move for a forward-looking event, this watch follows in the footsteps of the white gold, black dial, small-second, pointer date Calatrava ref. 6006G. This watch presents a similar case shape in a smaller package and, importantly, a comparable dial and hand design.
A Modern Patek Philippe Calatrava
However, the design of the new Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 6007A-001 is otherwise very different and appears to be an astute swing at an already-successful market. You see, last year’s unconventional but charming Calatrava Weekly Calendar ref. 5212A offered a new stainless steel watch to ease demand for both Nautilus and Aquanaut collections. It also presented the opportunity to introduce this audience to a different collection.
Instead, the new Calatrava ref. 6007A-001 goes a step further. It still presents a polished case except that it is now 40mm in diameter and stainless steel. Importantly, it’s also a case with wide-shouldered, masculine stance courtesy of a 22mm lug width. This ‘everyday’ demeanour is far more akin to an office overlooking Geneva than to an opera in the centre of Paris and is emphasised by the replacement of an alligator strap for calf leather embossed with a cordura pattern.
Internally, this watch also favours a more simple philosophy. Instead of a the complicated though very slender micro-rotor cal. 240 in the 6006G, the new Calatrava uses the cal. 324 S C which is also used by the Aquanaut. This gives a 4 Hz beat rate, unidirectional automatic winding and 29 jewels. Most importantly, it’s a very well-made, reliable and serviceable high horology movement for a casual, daily timepiece.
A Dial in Blue
Of course, where this special edition really comes to life is where the dial and hands are concerned. Beginning with the dial, we are given a grey-blue colour which remains very much in keeping with popular models such as the Aquanaut and Nautilus — both mainstays of modern Patek Philippe. Make no mistake, though, this dial is more complex. Firstly, the outer rim of the dial with the second and minute track is highlighted with a sunburst pattern. Moving inwards, the bands featuring applied white gold numerals and a secondary railway-style second track feature fine concentric rings with a definite touch of modernity.
At the centre of the dial as well as many a discussion about the merits of this watch is a stamped ‘carbon’ pattern. Whilst certainly an acquired taste, this offsets the circular patterns visible elsewhere and replicates something of Patek’s previous special editions. After all, this is a limited piece produced in only 1000 pieces.
To top the package off is a handset which, for me, is a true highlight. Endowed with sharp edges and a healthy luminescent application to match the Arabic numerals, the hands of this watch are white gold batons coated in white lacquer. The second hand, an unmistakable Patek Philippe touch, features the same white finish and is fantastically slender, thus giving precision to the dial. As a whole package, this watch feels like a modern interpretation of the sector and scientific dials of 1930s and ’40s watchmaking.
A Notable Limited Edition
Where value is concerned, the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 6007A-001 presents a conundrum. It is, by automatic Patek Philippe standards and especially by the standards of a special edition, reasonably priced. However, when you compare this watch to the marginally more expensive ref. 6006G, the new Calatrava is inferior in almost every detail. It features a more advanced micro-rotor movement, a profile almost two millimetres thinner and a white gold case. In truth, the question a buyer needs to consider is whether they rate exclusivity over value.
Whatever the verdict may be that question, one cannot argue that the creation of the ref. 6007A-001 Calatrava is a supremely astute decision for Patek Philippe and perfectly in-tune with the times.
Availability: 1000 pieces priced at CHF 25,000
- Reference: 6007A-001
- Dimensions: 40mm x 10.34
- Material: Stainless Steel
- Crystal: Domed Sapphire Crystal and Flat Sapphire Case Back with Printed Text
- Display: Blue-Grey Dial with Applied Arabic Numerals / White Lacquered White Gold Hands / Date at 3 O’clock
- Water Resistance: 30 m, 100 ft, 3 ATM
- Movement: Cal. 324 S C: Automatic & Manual Winding / Time & Date / 35 – 45-hour power reserve / 21K Gold Automatic Rotor with Unidirectional Winding / 4 Hz, 28,800 vph, 8 ticks-per-second / Gyromax Balance with Spiromax Balance Spring in Silinvar /