Ladies and gentlemen, the most classic, elegant and unequivocal demonstration of Swiss watchmaking in Geneva is back. Let’s take a look at the new Patek Philippe 5270J-001 in yellow gold.
If any watch were the quintessential Patek Philippe, with the possible exception of the Calatrava ref. 96, it would be the string of perpetual calendar chronographs stretching back to the 1941 ref. 1518. As far as these watches went, the 2011 release of the ref. 5270 was a turning point: it was the first entirely in-house perpetual calendar to come from this brand.
Since its inception, the Patek Philippe 5270 has been offered in white gold, rose gold and platinum, the latter two still existing in their catalogue. However, since the discontinuation of this watch’s predecessor, the Patek Philippe 5970, the quintessential yellow gold variant has been missing.
Today, this option has been reintroduced to the collection with the Patek Philippe 5270J in yellow gold and an opaline silver dial. In short, this is the classical option to the brighter, more modern interpretations of this iconic chronograph.
A Story to Continue
The Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph and its following have become an institution of the watch world. When the original 1518 came in 1941, it revolutionised the landscape of wristwatch complication and remained unmatched by any other brand for much of the 20th century.
Followed by such watches as the 2499, 3970, 5020, 5970 and, ultimately, the 5270, Patek Philippe have succeeded in updating the principle without rendering any previous version obsolete. This is something which seemingly only a brand like Patek Philippe can do.
Importantly for this new yellow gold Patek Philippe 5270J, the predominant colour of Patek Philippe was yellow gold (hence the spectacular demand for a 1518 in stainless steel). As such, with this ultra-traditional variant of the 5270, Patek Philippe has fused classical looks with a truly in-house movement.
A Modern Interpretation
The execution of the new 5270J-001 will come as no real surprise and comprises exactly the same three-part case design as existing variants. Nonetheless, with the change in colour comes a very different demeanour and a strong contrast with the opaline dial.
Speaking of the dial, this features the same arrangement as other the rose gold version in current production. This means that matching yellow gold batons are applied to the dial whilst no ‘chin’ has been added to the minute track as with early versions of the 5270.
Inevitably, it is in the details that the allure of this dial becomes apparent. This is perhaps most obvious when witnessing the delightful variation in print and its contract with the predominant warm, silver colour.
The hands are also carried over with a leaf shape and a long second hand. A touch which should be noted is the bead-blasting of all hands relating to the chronograph (minutes and seconds) in order to be differentiated from the polished rest.
The cal. CH 29-535 PS Q inside this model remains unchanged from previous versions and, naturally, retains the column wheel and lateral clutch actuated perpetual calendar chronograph of its predecessors.
A quirk of Patek Philippe’s cal. CH 29-535 PS Q is just how modern is specifications are. Where the mechanisms inside the watch stretch back through history, it runs at a modern 28,800 beats per hour and has a per reserve up to 65 hour long.
Where decoration is concerned, this movement is at the pinnacle of modern Patek Philippe finishing. Each bridge, cock and lever is features bevelling whilst such finishes as graining, perlage, black polishing and Geneva striping are all present. With that being said, this isn’t finishing to amaze but rather to reaffirm the position of this watch amongst Swiss high horology.
The new Patek Philippe 5270J-001 in yellow gold is clearly no revolution but is, nonetheless, a necessary and charming addition to the history of the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph.
Availability: CHF 149,000
- Dimensions: 41 mm x 12.4 mm
- Material: 18K Yellow Gold
- Crystal: Domed Sapphire
- Display: Opalescent Silver Dial Base / Applied 18K Yellow Gold Baton Markers / Tachymetric Scale / Leap Year Indicator / 18K Yellow Gold Hands / Day-Night Indicator
- Water Resistance: 30 m / 100 ft / 3 ATM
- Movement: cal. CH 29-535 PS Q: Time, 30-Minute Chronograph, Perpetual Calendar, Day-Night Indicator, Moonphase / Manual Wind / Column Wheel and Lateral Clutch / 4 Hz, 28,800 vph, 8 Ticks-per-Second / 55 to 65-Hour Power Reserve