With the new Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds, H. Moser & Cie. entend their range of steel sports watches with integrated bracelets in an every-growing market. However, in true Moser spirit, this might be the most original offering currently available.
For H. Moser & Cie. 2020 has been a very exciting year in spite of the obvious complications. Their collaboration with MB&F presented an imaginative cocktail of engineering and design yet, for me as for many, it was the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph which left us under H. Moser & Cie.’s spell. At the time, this truly exquisite yet utterly modern chronograph seemed like a one-off but it now seems that it will form the centre of a new collection for this brand. Starting off this widened range is the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds.
With a 40 mm case, 120-metre water resistance and an integrated bracelet, it is clear that H. Moser & Cie. intend to appeal to the increasingly-busy market for ‘sporting’ high horology. This is the market occupied by the Patek Philippe Nautilus, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and, more recently, the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus. Being a very different brand, however, I am pleased to say that there is nothing unoriginal about the execution of this watch.
Most strikingly, this watch avoids the (perhaps) cliché blue dial of the aforementioned timepieces and instead presents a clean, sunburst, fumé ‘Matrix Green’ dial. For me, the inclusion of such a reference in the name of the dial’s colour is proof of how individual this brand wants the Streamliner to be. Typically for Moser, the dial printing doesn’t extend beyond the brand name and staggered ‘racing’ second track. The hands and applied baton markers retain the rounded pill shape of the original and are luminous along their length on the Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds. The luminous material is Globolight, a ceramic-based material containing Super LumiNova and which has appeared previously in this brand’s range. Aesthetically speaking, H. Moser & Cie. have taken a ‘less is more’ approach which gives undeniable clarity to this watch.
A Complex Case
For many, though, the dial will be of little consequence beside the case and its remarkable integrated bracelet. In as saturated a market as that for luxury sports watches with such bracelets, it is often difficult to find originality. From the release of the Moser Streamliner Flyback Chronograph in January, the unique appearance of the bracelet has been clear. With a waved pattern and invisible articulation, it ventured quite a but further than the three-link equivalents seen from other brands.
Where the design is concerned, this watch uses the contrast between brushed and polished surfaces to extremely good effect to separate the sunburst-brushed upper case from the mid-case. The polished bands around the case and down the bevels of the bracelet also give a very futuristic demeanour to a watch produced with very clear respect for Swiss tradition.
The 100% Swiss Movement
Inside the Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds is a movement new to nobody who follows the brand: the HMC 200. With 27 jewels and a minimum power reserve of 72 hours, this is very much an automatic movement for everyday use. It also fits into the general aesthetic of Moser’s movements far more obviously than the first Streamliner thanks to a rose gold rotor, double striping and a recognisable balance bridge. Whilst not the pinnacle of Moser’s movement collection, it certainly meets the standards one might expect and includes interesting technology including a regulating organ from Moser’s sister-brand Precision Engineering AG.
What does the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds mean for the brand? Above all, it means that the waters tested by the original Streamliner in January have shown a new direction for Moser’s collection and image. This watch appeals to a very different market than the earlier chronograph too with a price of USD 22,000 and, thanks to being 2.3 mm narrower than it, the Centre Seconds should be more wearable too. I suspect, however, that it will be the following versions which will cement the Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds in the brand’s collection.
Availability: From September in retailers for USD 22,000
- Dimensions: 40 mm x 11.8 mm
- Material: Stainless Steel
- Crystal: Domed Sapphire
- Display: Fumé Sunburst Matrix Green Dial / Applied Luminous Baton Markers / Polished Hands with Globolight Inserts /
- Water Resistance: 120 m / 394 ft / 120 ATM
- Movement: HMC 200: Time (Hours, Minutes & Seconds) / Bi-Directional Pawl-Winding Automatic & Manual Winding / 27 Jewels / 21,600 vph, 3 Hz, 6 Ticks-per-Second / 72+-Hour Power Reserve / 18k Gold Automatic Rotor / Straumann Hairspring®